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A Guide to Jewelry Terminology

Jul 28, 2024

A Guide to Jewelry Terminology

Here at Jack Weir & Sons, jewelry is our passion. We talk about it non-stop, we think about it non-stop, we even dream about it. We know this business inside and out and know that it can be confusing to those who aren’t as jewelry obsessed as we are. Like any other art form, there is a language to the beauty, and when in the market for jewelry it’s important that you have a basic understanding of the various terms used in the industry. Not only will this make you a more savvy consumer, but it will also greatly enhance your appreciation and knowledge. This glossary provides a detailed overview of key jewelry terms, covering different types of jewelry, their components, and industry-specific jargon. You can always reach out to us here at Jack Weir & Sons if there is any clarification that you need. 

We’ll start with general terminology and get to more specific language as the blog goes on. 

Jewelry Terms 

Gemstone Terminology

 Cabochon: A gemstone that has been shaped and polished instead of faceted, typically with a rounded top and flat bottom.

Facet: A flat surface on a cut gemstone, each of which enhances the stone's brilliance

Carat: A unit of weight for gemstones, equal to 200 milligrams.

Clarity: A measure of the internal flaws (inclusions) or external blemishes of a gemstone.

Cut: Refers to how a gemstone is​​ shaped and faceted, affecting its brilliance and overall appearance.

Color: The hue, saturation, and tone of a gemstone, particularly important for diamonds.

The above are also known as "The Four Cs" 

Luster: The way light interacts with the surface of a gemstone, contributing to its overall shine and appearance.

Metal Terminology

Alloy: A mixture of two or more metals to enhance strength or color.

Carat (Karat): A measure of the purity of gold, with 24 carats being pure gold.

Sterling Silver: A high-quality silver alloy containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper.

Platinum: A rare, precious metal known for its strength, durability, and hypoallergenic properties.

Vermeil: A type of gold plating over sterling silver, providing a luxurious appearance without the high cost of solid gold.

Design Terminology

Art Deco: A design style characterized by geometric shapes, bold lines, and vibrant colors, popular in the 1920s and 1930s.

Art Nouveau: A design style featuring organic, flowing lines and natural motifs, popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Filigree: Intricate metalwork featuring delicate, lace-like patterns.

Engraving: The process of cutting or carving designs into the surface of metal or gemstone.

Inlay: A decorative technique where materials (e.g., gemstones, enamel) are set into the surface of the jewelry piece.

Craft Terminology

Appraisal: A professional evaluation of the value of a jewelry piece.

Bench Jeweler: A skilled artisan who creates, repairs, and modifies jewelry at a workbench.

Casting: A process where molten metal is poured into a mold to create a jewelry piece.

Fineness: A measure of the purity of a precious metal, often expressed in parts per thousand.

Loupe: A small magnifying lens used by jewelers to inspect gemstones and fine details.

Plating: The process of covering a metal object with a thin layer of another metal.

Re-sizing: Adjusting the size of a ring to fit a different finger size.

Setting: The process of securing gemstones into a jewelry piece.

Tarnish: A discolor

Hallmark: A mark stamped on precious metals to indicate purity, origin, and manufacturer.

Patina: A surface appearance on metal, often greenish or brownish, caused by age or exposure to elements.

Antique: Jewelry that is at least 100 years old.

Vintage: Jewelry that is at least 20 years old but less than 100 years old.

Estate Jewelry: Previously owned jewelry, often from an estate sale.

 

Necklace Terminology

Necklaces, one of the oldest forms of jewelry, have a rich history that spans thousands of years. They have been worn for various reasons, from status symbols and religious tokens to fashion statements and personal expressions.

The origins of necklaces date back to prehistoric times when early humans crafted them from natural materials such as bones, shells, and stones. These early necklaces were often amulets believed to protect the wearer from harm. As civilizations advanced, so did the art of necklace-making. 


In ancient Greece and Rome, necklaces were not only decorative but also carried symbolic meanings. The Greeks wore gold and silver necklaces adorned with gemstones, often shaped into intricate designs of animals and gods. The Romans preferred heavy chains and pendants, incorporating motifs from their conquests.


During the Middle Ages, necklaces were less prominent due to the high-necked garments of the period. However, the Renaissance saw a resurgence in elaborate necklace designs, often featuring pearls and gemstones set in gold.


Today, necklaces come in a wide variety of styles from minimalist chains to statement pieces adorned with diamonds and other precious stones. Necklaces remain a versatile piece of jewelry, capable of enhancing any outfit and expressing personal style.

Explore Necklaces at Jack Weir & Sons
 

Chain: The main component of a necklace, typically made of metal links or a single strand of material. We recently wrote a more in depth look at types of chains - but in case you need a quick refresher, we’ve included some of the most prevalent chains below. 

Cable Chain: A basic and classic chain design featuring oval or round links.
Figaro Chain: Characterized by a pattern of two or three small circular links followed by one elongated oval link.
Rope Chain: Comprises twisted links that resemble a rope.

 

Pendant: An ornament that hangs from the chain, often the focal point of the necklace.

Bail: The loop component of a pendant through which the chain passes.

Drop: A pendant or piece that hangs down, often teardrop-shaped.

Clasp: The fastening mechanism that secures the necklace around the neck.

Lobster Claw Clasp (pictured above): A popular and secure clasp with a spring-loaded mechanism.

Spring Ring Clasp (pictured above): A circular clasp with a spring mechanism.

Toggle Clasp: Features a bar that fits through a loop to secure the necklace.

Ring Terminology

Rings are timeless symbols of love, power, and status. They have a rich and varied history that dates back thousands of years. The earliest rings were simple bands made from materials like bone, ivory, and leather. In ancient Egypt, rings evolved into more elaborate designs made from gold and decorated with precious stones. Egyptians often wore rings as symbols of eternity, with the circular shape representing unending life. Signet rings, bearing the wearer's seal, were also common and used to stamp official documents.

In ancient Rome, rings were significant markers of social status and citizenship. Iron rings were typically worn by commoners, while gold rings were reserved for the elite and senators. Engagement rings, a tradition that persists today, originated in Roman times when a groom presented his bride with a ring as a promise of marriage.

The Renaissance period saw a surge in the artistry and complexity of rings, with intricate designs featuring gemstones, enamel work, and detailed engravings. Rings were often used to display family crests, religious symbols, and even poison compartments.

In contemporary times, rings are worn for various reasons, from fashion to commemoration of significant life events. Wedding bands, engagement rings, and class rings are among the most popular, each carrying deep personal meaning. Designers today continue to innovate, creating rings that blend tradition with modern aesthetics. 

Explore Rings at Jack Weir & Sons

Shank: The band or body of the ring that encircles the finger.
Split Shank: A shank that splits into two or more bands before meeting the main setting.

    Setting: The Part of the ring that holds the gemstone 

    Prong Setting: Uses metal prongs to secure the gemstone, allowing maximum light exposure.
    Bezel Setting: A metal rim encircles the gemstone, offering strong protection.
    Pavé Setting: Features many small gemstones set closely together with minimal visibility of the metal.
    Cathedral Setting: The shank extends upwards towards the gemstone, resembling cathedral arches.

      Head: The upper portion of the ring that contains the main setting and gemstone.

      Gallery: The area beneath the main setting, often adorned with decorative metalwork.

      Earring Terminology

      Earrings are among the oldest and most versatile forms of jewelry and have adorned ears across cultures and epochs, symbolizing everything from status and wealth to personal style and identity. Their history stretches back thousands of years, reflecting the evolution of human civilization and artistry.

      The earliest earrings date back to ancient civilizations such as Mesopotamia, where hoop earrings were crafted from precious metals like gold and silver. In ancient Egypt, earrings were often worn by both men and women, signifying social rank and affluence. Gold earrings set with gemstones were common, and designs often incorporated symbols of the gods and nature.

      In the 18th and 19th centuries, earrings became an essential part of women's fashion, evolving in style with the changing trends. The Victorian era, in particular, saw a fascination with intricate designs and the use of diamonds and other precious gems. Earrings were often given as tokens of affection and status.

      The 20th century brought diverse styles and new materials into earring design, from the Art Deco elegance of the 1920s to the bold and experimental pieces of the 1980s. Modern earrings come in countless styles, from simple studs and hoops to elaborate, avant-garde designs. 

      Today, earrings are celebrated for their ability to enhance personal style and convey individual identity. Today, the most popular earrings come in the form of studs that sit snugly on the earlobe, hoops that encircle the earlobe in varying sizes and drop earrings which have a dangling element to them. 

      Explore Earrings at Jack Weir & Sons 

      Post: The metal rod that passes through the earlobe in stud earrings.

      Push Back: A type of earring back that slides onto the post.

      Screw Back: A secure type of earring back that screws onto the post.

      Clip On Back: A type of earring back that clips onto the ear and doesn't require a piercing.

       

      Hook: The curved wire used in dangle earrings to hang from the earlobe.
      French Hook: A simple wire hook without a clasp.


      Leverback: A hook with a hinged, closed mechanism for added security.
      Hoop: Circular or semi-circular earrings that loop through the ear.
      Huggies: Smaller hoops that hug the earlobe closely.
      Drop: Earrings that feature a design element that dangles below the earlobe.

       

       

      Bracelet Terminology

      Bracelets are a versatile accessory and have adorned wrists for millennia, symbolizing status, protection, and personal style.  The earliest bracelets date back to ancient Egypt, made from bones, stones, and wood. These early adornments often held religious or spiritual significance, featuring symbols of gods, nature, and protection. As Egyptian craftsmanship evolved, bracelets became more elaborate, crafted from gold and adorned with precious stones, signifying wealth and status.

      In ancient Greece and Rome, bracelets were popular among both men and women. Greek soldiers wore leather and metal cuffs for protection, while women adorned themselves with gold and silver bangles with intricate designs. The Romans embraced a variety of bracelet styles, from simple bands to gem-studded pieces, often worn in multiples up the arm.

      During the Middle Ages, bracelets saw a decline due to the fashion of long sleeves and heavy garments. However, the Renaissance brought a resurgence as wrists were exposed again. Bracelets became symbols of wealth and refinement, often featuring intricate patterns, pearls, gemstones, and enamel.

      The Art Deco movement of the 1920s introduced geometric designs and new materials like platinum and colorful gemstones. Mid-century saw the rise of charm bracelets, allowing wearers to collect and display charms representing personal milestones.

      Today, bracelets come in a wide variety of styles, each offering a unique way to express personal style. Bangles, which are rigid bracelets that slip over the hand or have a hinge, can be worn alone or stacked for a bolder look. Cuffs, wide open-ended bracelets that wrap around the wrist, often feature intricate designs and can make a statement. Chain bracelets, made of interlocking links, can range from delicate and simple to bold and chunky. Charm bracelets, chains that hold multiple charms representing personal milestones, interests, or memories, are particularly popular for their personalized touch. Beaded bracelets, made from various beads strung together, can be simple or elaborate and are often used in bohemian or casual styles. Leather bracelets, casual and versatile, are often decorated with metal elements, beads, or woven designs. Friendship bracelets, colorful and handmade, are typically given as gifts to symbolize friendship and connection.

      Explore Bracelets at Jack Weir & Sons

      Cuff: A type of bracelet that is typically wide, rigid, open-ended and often worn around the wrist without a clasp.

      Bangle: A solid, ring-like bracelet that slips over the hand.

      Chain Bracelet: Composed of interconnected links, similar to a necklace chain.

      Charm Bracelet: A bracelet featuring small pendants or trinkets attached to it.

      Watches, with their blend of functionality and style, have a storied history that spans centuries. From their inception as simple timekeeping devices to their evolution into sophisticated accessories, watches have continually adapted to changing technologies and fashion trends.

      The earliest form of watches appeared in the 16th century in Europe. Known as "clock-watches," these early devices were worn as pendants and primarily used by the nobility. Crafted from precious metals and adorned with intricate designs, these timepieces were as much about status as they were about functionality. The development of the mainspring allowed these watches to be portable, marking the beginning of personal timekeeping.

      By the 17th century, watches had become more compact and accurate. Innovations such as the balance spring, introduced by Christiaan Huygens, significantly improved timekeeping precision. Pocket watches became the norm, often carried in waistcoat pockets and secured with a chain. These watches were prized possessions, frequently passed down through generations.

      The 19th century saw the advent of wristwatches, initially worn by women as jewelry. Men primarily used pocket watches until World War I, when wristwatches proved more practical for soldiers in the trenches. This shift led to the widespread adoption of wristwatches for men, and they became standard attire by the 20th century.

      The 20th century was a golden era for wristwatches, with significant advancements in both technology and design. The introduction of quartz movement in the 1960s revolutionized the industry, offering unprecedented accuracy and affordability. Brands like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe became synonymous with luxury and precision, producing iconic models that are highly sought after by collectors.

      Today, watches are available in a myriad of styles, each catering to different tastes and purposes. Mechanical watches, prized for their craftsmanship, continue to be a symbol of tradition and luxury. Quartz watches offer reliable and affordable timekeeping, making them popular for everyday use. 

      Fashion watches focus on aesthetics, often designed to complement outfits and reflect personal style. Dive watches are known for their robustness and water resistance and are favored by adventurers and professionals alike. Dress watches, with their sleek and elegant designs, are ideal for formal occasions, while sports watches offer durability and functionality for active lifestyles.

      Modern watchmakers continue to push the boundaries of design and technology, ensuring that watches remain a beloved accessory. Whether crafted from precious metals, featuring intricate movements, or equipped with the latest smart features, watches provide a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, making them timeless companions for any occasion.

      Watch Terminology

      Explore Watches at Jack Weir & Sons 

      Case: The outer covering of the watch, protecting the internal components.
      Bezel: The ring surrounding the watch face, often used to hold the crystal in place.
      Rotating Bezel: Found on some watches, can be turned to perform specific functions like tracking elapsed time.

      Dial: The face of the watch that displays the time.
      Sub-dial: Smaller dials within the main dial that provide additional information (e.g., seconds, date).
      Crystal: The transparent cover over the watch dial, made from glass, plastic, or sapphire.

      Lug: The part of the watch case where the strap or bracelet is attached.
      Movement: The mechanism that drives the watch, can be mechanical, automatic, or quartz.

       

       

      Of course it's nearly impossible to capture an entire industry worth of lingo in one blog post. You can always reach out to us if you need any clarification or want to understand more - we love to chat about the details of each of our pieces and how they fit your needs! 

       

       

       

      At Jack Weir & Sons, we’ve spent the last 40 years traveling to Europe and all over the world, curating extraordinary estate jewels. JWS is where the old world meets the new world. Celebrate life, preserve history, and discover your own priceless heirloom jewel. We are extremely grateful for our clients and the ability to help people celebrate their special moments through one-of-a-kind jewelry. To share that gratitude and our strong family values, we chose to partner with Baby2Baby. So far, we've donated $125,000. A portion of every sale goes towards children living in poverty to provide them with diapers, clothing, and all the basic necessities that every child deserves. 
       
      We offer in-person and Virtual Appointments and are happy to answer any questions about your favorite jewel. 
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