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A Guide to the Marquise Cut Diamond

Feb 23, 2025

A Guide to the Marquise Cut Diamond

Every diamond holds a vast abyss of stories - their hardness and permanence in this world ensuring that they each have so many tales to tell. But the marquise-cut diamond itself seems to tell a story by it’s very presence. Elongated and sharp at both ends and soft in the middle, it’s a shape that seems to stretch the idea of time itself. A marquise-cut diamond not only catches th

e light, but holds it too and carries with it an elegance both timeless and idiosyncratic.

The Origins of the Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise-cut diamond dates back to 18th-century France, where legend tells us that King Louis XV commissioned a diamond shape to match the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. 

 

the Marquise de Pompadour

The Marquise de Pompadour; Wikipedia

Whether this is true hardly matters—the romance of the cut endures. The marquise-cut diamond is an elongated oval, but not quite. It comes to two precise points, creating an effect that is as dramatic as it is refined.

During the Victorian and Edwardian periods, marquise-cut diamonds became synonymous with romance and luxury. Jewelry designers incorporated them into intricate settings, pairing them with smaller accent stones to highlight their elongated brilliance. The cut saw a resurgence in the 20th century, particularly in the 1960s and 70s, when bold, unconventional designs dominated the jewelry industry. Today, the marquise-cut continues to appeal to those who seek a diamond that stands apart, a shape that embodies classic elegance, but does it with a cheeky wink. 

How to Spot a Good Marquise Cut Diamond

The marquise cut diamond combines artistry and geometry in a shape that gracefully stretches to two points. The best marquise cut diamonds exhibit a perfect symmetry. Each point must align, the curve of the stone must be smooth and uninterrupted. If a marquise cut diamond is too narrow, it loses its balance; if too wide, it forfeits its elegance. The ideal length-to-width ratio sits between 1.75 and 2.25, a range that ensures the diamond maintains its graceful elongation without appearing too stretched. From above, the marquise-cut diamond might resemble a boat adrift on calm waters. On its surface lies the table, its largest facet, which delicately invites the light to dance across its polished plane. At each end, the signature points of the marquise converge, adding an elegant lift that catches the eye. Every element of the diamond coalesces into a gem that feels both timeless and modern. In this interplay of edges and arcs, the marquise-cut reveals a balanced dance of reflection, softly commanding attention without demanding it.

Carat weight in marquise-cut diamonds carries a different meaning than in other cuts. Because of its shape, a marquise cut diamond will often appear larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight—its length offers an optical illusion of greater size. This makes it an excellent choice for those who want maximum impact without an excessive increase in cost. Clarity is another consideration; while inclusions are more easily hidden along the elongated edges, the center of the diamond is less forgiving.

Then, there is the bow tie effect marquise-cut diamond owners often notice. This effect occurs when a shadow appears in the center of the stone, caused by light not reflecting properly. In a well-cut marquise-cut, this effect is minimized, balanced carefully by expert craftsmanship. When selecting a marquise-cut diamond, look for a stone where the bow tie effect is faint rather than dominant, ensuring that the brilliance of the diamond is not compromised.

Choosing a Marquise Cut Diamond Ring

Choosing a marquise-cut diamond is, in itself, a decision to embrace something distinctive. It is not the standard, not the default. But it is enduring, its form both historic and avant-garde. When selecting a marquise-cut engagement ring, consider not only the cut and clarity but also the setting. A diamond of this shape demands attention, and it deserves a setting that frames its uniqueness without overshadowing it.

For those who prefer a more contemporary aesthetic, east-west settings, where the marquise-cut diamond is positioned horizontally rather than vertically, offer a modern twist on a classic shape. Bezel settings, which encase the diamond in a smooth metal rim, add durability and a sleek, minimalistic appearance. Meanwhile, vintage-inspired filigree settings highlight the romantic origins of the cut, creating a sense of history and artistry within the ring.

Marquise Cut Engagement Rings: A Bold Statement

For all its history, the marquise-cut diamond remains a statement of individuality. A marquise-cut engagement ring is an unconventional choice, a rejection of the ordinary in favor of something more daring, more refined. It has adorned the hands of royalty and rebels alike, its pointed edges symbolizing a determination that is rarely found in softer cuts.

The elongated shape of a marquise-cut diamond ring flatters the hand, creating the illusion of longer, more slender fingers. It pairs beautifully with solitaire settings, where the diamond itself takes center stage, or with intricate vintage-inspired designs that highlight its dramatic curves. A halo setting, where smaller diamonds encircle the marquise-cut center stone, enhances its brilliance, while a three-stone setting adds depth and symbolism to the ring.


Marquise Cut Diamonds: A Symbol of Individuality

In the end, the marquise-cut diamond is not just a choice—it is a declaration. It is for those who appreciate the past but are not bound by it, for those who seek something distinct yet timeless. It is a cut that captures the essence of movement, of elegance, of rebellion against the ordinary.

For those drawn to something beyond the expected, the marquise-cut diamond is a whisper of history, a glint of something rare, a symbol that does not just endure but captivates. And perhaps that is the point - to wear a diamond that tells a story as enduring as the stone itself.

Whether you’re searching for the perfect marquise-cut engagement ring, a delicate marquise-cut diamond bracelet, or a striking marquise-cut diamond necklace, our collection offers a range of designs that celebrate the brilliance of this extraordinary cut. Explore our curated selection today and find the piece that speaks to your own unique story.


Marquise Cut Diamonds:  A Study in Variety

While the marquise cut finds its true home in rings, it has made appearances in other forms. A marquise-cut diamond necklace can be striking, the pointed shape creating an element of movement and grace. A pair of marquise-cut diamond earrings can both carry a delicate symmetry and evoke the beauty of the organic world and resemble leaves or flames. The marquise-cut also makes for a unique infinity band, where smaller marquise-cut diamonds line a continuous loop around the finger, symbolizing infinite love and commitment.

Beyond traditional white diamonds, the marquise cut also enhances fancy-colored diamonds. Yellow, pink, and even blue diamonds in a marquise cut amplify their vibrancy, making them an exquisite choice for those who want a truly unique piece of jewelry. The cut also lends itself well to mixed-metal settings, where platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold frames add contrast and character.

The marquise-cut diamond is a diamond that should be celebrated for it's history, it's beauty and it's never-ending intrigue. It makes a perfect diamond for those who are looking for something uniquely elegant. Here at Jack Weir & Sons, our goal is to help you find the perfect piece for yourself or your loved one.  If you're interested in learning more about how to incorporate the fabulous marquise-cut diamond into a custom piece, don't hesitate to reach out to us for an appointment today.

 

At Jack Weir & Sons, we’ve spent the last 40 years traveling to Europe and all over the world, curating extraordinary estate jewels. JWS is where the old world meets the new world. Celebrate life, preserve history, and discover your own priceless heirloom jewel. We are extremely grateful for our clients and the ability to help people celebrate their special moments through one-of-a-kind jewelry. To share that gratitude and our strong family values, we chose to partner with Baby2Baby. So far, we've donated $125,000. A portion of every sale goes towards children living in poverty to provide them with diapers, clothing, and all the basic necessities that every child deserves. 

 

We offer in-person and Virtual Appointments and are happy to answer any questions about your favorite jewel. 

 

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