Old European Cut vs. Old Mine Cut: A Guide to Choosing the Right Ring

Congratulations! If you have found yourself on this page, it means that you are looking for something extremely special. Maybe it’s time to propose to the love of your life with an engagement ring as beautiful and unique as they are? Or maybe you have come looking for something to mark a personal accomplishment - a promotion perhaps? Or perhaps it’s the impending holiday spirit that is moving you to look for something that screams love and adoration and perseverance? Either way, you’ve come to the right place and we’re so happy you’re here. 

Like everything else that is important in life and especially in love, shopping for the perfect antique diamond can sometimes seem extremely overwhelming. When shopping for a modern era diamond, you at least have modern era parameters to guide you. With antique diamonds, these parameters, what have become known as The 4Cs, are less relevant. If you are looking for modern day precision and perfection, an antique diamond may not be your best bet. With antique diamonds, you have to be ready to let your heart guide you. 

This is not to say that there aren’t specific characteristics and markers that you should be on the lookout for when seeking out an antique diamond. A diamond of any era is a special investment, emotionally and financially, and we want to make sure you have the resources you need to make the perfect decision for you and your beloved. We’ve written a little guide below to help you navigate two cuts you’ll notice often during your journey to find your perfect diamond,  “Old Mine Cut” and “Old European Cut.”  These are the most prevalent precursors to the modern day Brilliant Cut diamond made popular by DeBeers and Tiffany and Co. 

We can’t stress enough that a diamond of this sort has to speak to you, so choose wisely with your personal taste in mind, looking for what compels you more than what certifications or carats come with it.  You can always feel free to reach out to us at Jack Weir & Sons to discuss in more detail what you’re looking for. 

Old Mine Cut 

The Old Mine Cut (formerly known as the Miners Cut, Mine Cut, Old Miner Cut or Old Miners cut depending on your geography) diamond was popular during the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras. So, if you are trying to find the vibe, think Jane Austen, think Emily Bronte, think Louisa May Alcott - women just starting to experiment with the way they dress, the way they express themselves and what it is that they want from life outside of the home. The tail end of this time period is when diamonds overtook pearls in the upper echelons of society, due in large part to King Edwards reign - a reign known for opulence of all kinds. Today, the Old Mine Cut is also sometimes used interchangeably with an Antique Cushion Cut, which is something to keep in mind as you shop. 

Characteristics of the Old Mine Cut Diamond 

An Old Mine Cut is characterized by its hand cut - each stone unique to the hand who cut it and the candlelight they cut it by. That’s right - Old Mine Cuts were cut and polished by hand and by candlelight - a world of difference from the fluorescent bulbs and modern technology we rely on today. Because each rough diamond was cut to optimize its unique shape and beauty, not cut to a set of specifications like a modern brilliant diamond is today, an Old Mine Cut has an undeniable drama and livelihood to it. The diamonds themselves tell the stories not only of those who have worn them before, but those who compelled the beauty from under their rough exterior. 

The defining characteristics of old mine diamonds include their distinctive cushion shape, which is a square or rectangular form with rounded corners, resembling a pillow. This shape was specifically designed to maximize the brilliance of diamonds under candlelight, the primary source of light during the era. The diamonds also feature a high crown, small table, deep pavilion, and large culet, creating a soft, romantic glow rather than the sharp, fiery brilliance seen in modern cuts. Before the modern brilliant era as we know it today, the diamond cutter prioritized the unique traits and carat weight of each stone and focused on optimizing the light play within the stone in even the softest, candle-lit ambiances. The facets of an Old Mine Cut are much larger, in large part due to the type of tools and knowledge available to diamond cutters at time. These facets, in addition to much larger culets, are what are responsible for creating this extraordinary and colorful play of light. 

Let’s take a moment to talk about what each of these components means, and why they make these diamonds so special. 

Culet - A culet is a facet, or really the lack of facet, at the base of the diamond. A culet refers to the removal of the sharp point of a base of a diamond, leaving a flat surface in its place. If you look down the middle of a stone, you can see the black or white base that is the culet. But by removing this point, the bottom facet, you lose the reflectivity the pointed base of a diamond provides and allow for light leakage. The aesthetic this creates is in direct conflict with the way we think about brilliance in a diamond today, splintered facets creating a snowflake effect. 

In the era of the Old Mine Cut, the culet played a crucial functional role by providing a sturdier base for the diamond. This was achieved by removing the pointed bottom facet, thus minimizing the risk of chipping. A single chip in this delicate area could lead to fractures throughout the stone, significantly diminishing its brilliance and beauty.

Table - The table is the flat, topmost facet of a diamond. It's the largest facet and serves as the window through which light enters and exits the diamond. The size of the table affects the diamond's brilliance and sparkle. In Old Mine Cut diamonds, the table is typically smaller compared to modern cuts, which allows for a distinctive play of light that gives these diamonds a unique, antique charm.

Crown - The crown is the upper portion of the diamond, situated above the girdle (the widest part of the diamond). It consists of several facets that slope downwards from the table to the girdle. In Old Mine Cut diamonds, the crown is notably higher, which helps to create a softer, romantic glow by dispersing light more evenly and less sharply. The high crown, along with the small table, contributes to the diamond’s vintage appeal and distinctive light performance.

Pavilion - The pavilion is the lower portion of the diamond, extending from the girdle down to the culet. The pavilion facets are responsible for reflecting light back up through the crown and table. 

Old Mine Cut diamonds have smaller tables which emphasize the diamond's depth, while their high crowns and deep pavilions enhance the light reflection, creating a unique play of light and shadow that gives these diamonds their distinctive charm. These cuts are often found in warmer colors, adding to their appeal. 

The Old European Cut 

By the end of the 19th Century, the Old European Cut had taken over as the more popular cut of diamond.  Old European Cut diamonds were most popular during the Victorian, Edwardian and art deco periods - act as the bridge between the Old Mine Cut (pre 1890), The Transitional Cut (usually cut in the 1930s or 1940s) and the Modern Brilliant Cut (post 1930). Once again, trying to get in the vibe?  Think Zelda Fitzgerald, Josephine Baker, Clara Bow. It was a time of liberation and excitement. It was the time of Cartier and Boucheron. The Old European Cut is the precursor to the modern Round Brilliant Cut.  

 Like Old Mine Cuts, Old European Cuts were taken from their rough state, measured and cut exclusively by hand, but with new technology in diamond saws and jewelry lathes that resulted in a cut that maximized carat weight, but was a bit more refined than the Old Mine Cut. These stones were not only designed to sparkle in candlelight, but under a gas lamp as well and emit an undeniable romantic glow. Because of this, with an Old European cut diamond, you are guaranteed to have a totally one of a kind stone. 

Also similar to Old Mine Cuts, Old European Cuts have less brilliance, but more fire. Brilliance and Fire both refer to the light play within the diamond and the resulting sparkle. Brilliance is how we describe the small flashes of white light, scintillating and bright. Fire is the dispersion of white light into rainbow colors. So Brilliance really means white sparkle and Fire is much more about color sparkle. Both produce a dizzying dance of light and beauty, but it is up to the personal tastes of the gifter or the wearer to determine which they prefer. 

So you might be thinking to yourself - it sounds like the Old European Cut and the Old Mine Cut are pretty similar - and the truth is, they are. But there are some very specific differences to these two cuts. 

Characteristics of Old European Cut Diamonds 

The Culet - One of the most defining aspects of old European cut diamonds is the prominent culet, often larger than that found in modern cuts. This facet at the bottom of the pavilion helps to reduce the risk of chipping and allows light to exit the diamond more softly, contributing to a distinct visual appeal.

The Table - The table, or the flat top surface of the diamond, is relatively small compared to modern round brilliant cuts. This smaller table increases the dispersion of light, resulting in more pronounced fire, or the display of spectral colors, though it can decrease overall brilliance.

The Crown - The crown of an old European cut diamond is typically higher and steeper. This elevated crown angle enhances the diamond's ability to capture and refract light, contributing to its unique sparkle and depth.

The Pavilion - The pavilion, or the lower portion of the diamond below the girdle, is deeper in old European cuts. This depth affects how light travels through the diamond, often creating a more subtle, less intense brilliance compared to modern cuts.

The Facet Structure - Old European cut diamonds generally have 58 facets, including the culet. These facets are larger and more irregular due to the hand-cutting techniques of the period, which results in less precise symmetry but adds to their antique charm.

Let’s take shape for example - Old Mine Cuts have a more square shape and the Old European Cut is round. The Old European Cut is largely attributed to forming our societal taste for the modern brilliant of today. 

When it comes to facet size, the Old Mine Cut has larger cut facets than the Old European Cut. As cutting techniques and tools became more refined, it became easier to refine the facets to create the desired effect. 

 How about fire, the dizzying dance of color and light mentioned up above? Because of the larger facets, the Old Mine Cut has more fire and intenser color. 

Are All Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut Diamonds Antiques?

It may come as a surprise, but not all Old Mine Cuts and Old European Cut diamonds are antique. While most are antique, the truth is that these diamonds can still be cut today, albeit  it is a specialized process that requires skilled artisans knowledgeable in antique cutting techniques.

Recreating these cuts today involves more labor-intensive methods compared to modern brilliant cuts. Artisans must meticulously shape each facet by hand to achieve the distinctive features of Old Mine and Old European cuts, discussed in depth above, such as their high crowns, small tables, and larger culets. 

The process of cutting these diamonds today also respects the diamond’s natural form, often resulting in slightly irregular shapes that add to their charm and individuality. Modern technology can assist in the process, but the essence of these cuts lies in their hand-crafted nature. While less common due to the preference for modern cuts, there is a niche market for these vintage styles. Many people appreciate their historical significance and unique aesthetic, leading not many, but a few diamond cutters and jewelers to offer newly cut Old Mine and Old European diamonds, blending historical craftsmanship with modern precision.

Benefits of Old Mine & Old European Cuts 

Either of these cuts is a beautiful way to continue the history of the stone. With each wearer, comes new energy and significance. So much of our lives today are disposable, and there’s a real commitment to the past, the present and the future when you decide on an OMC or OEC. With an OMC or OEC, you also have the clarity of consciousness knowing that the diamonds were mined prior to the conflict diamond era. You are getting both a natural diamond, derived from the beauty of mother nature without the fear of it playing a part in any conflict. 

Another really beautiful thing about an Old Mine Cut or Old European Cut, as with all estate jewelry, is that it has a much smaller carbon footprint. You are choosing to use what is already available, instead of creating something completely new, you are recycling and upcycling. It’s a sustainable option that you can feel extremely good about. 

A very powerful reason to purchase either of these cuts is that no two diamonds are the same. Because of the hand cut and polish nature of these stones, there is beauty in the distinct asymmetry of each. You will never have to fear having the same ring as the person sitting next to you getting a manicure. In fact, if you’re up for it - there’s really no better conversation starter than the significance and history of either of these cuts. 

Sometimes these cuts are less expensive than more modern cuts. This is because the beautiful asymmetry and warm coloring is less economically valued today than the precision cut, colorless diamonds that are so prevalent today. This is not to say that the value of these cuts is insignificant - in fact, quite the opposite. Though I wouldn’t suggest purchasing one of these cuts if you are looking to quickly turn it over for a profit, there are a finite number of stones in these cuts available. There is not a bad investment to be made here. Plus you will truly have a one of a kind diamond that was cut by hand over 100 years ago. 

Here at Jack Weir & Sons we’ve spent the last 40 years traveling to Europe and all over the world, curating extraordinary estate jewels. JWS is where the old world meets the new world. Celebrate life, preserve history, discover your own priceless heirloom jewel. We are extremely grateful for our clients and the ability to help people to celebrate their special moments through one of a kind jewelry. To share that gratitude and our strong family values, we chose to partner with Baby2Baby. So far, from November 2021- November 2022 we've donated $50,107. A portion of every sale goes towards children living in poverty to provide them with diapers, clothing, and all the basic necessities that every child deserves. 

We offer in-person and Virtual Appointments and are happy to answer any questions about your favorite jewel. 

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