London is one of the world’s great vintage jewelry capitals, but what most people see is only the surface. While Bond Street’s glittering storefronts display some of the finest pieces in the world, the real action happens behind closed doors.
I arrived in London early in the morning, with just a few hours before my first meeting. I took the opportunity to stop by Gray’s Antique Market, a place filled with beautiful jewelry – though, in this case, much of it was overpriced. It was a reminder that not all treasures are found in obvious places. The best deals? They’re in the places where Gray’s gets their inventory from, and that’s where I headed next.
One of my main stops was a three-story office in Mayfair, a space that’s more like a museum than a dealer’s office. Walking in, you’re surrounded by walls lined with iconic original art, cases filled with fine jewelry, and an energy that signals you’re in the right place. But the real magic happens underground.
In the vaults beneath the building, trays of jewelry are brought out – new acquisitions, reserved pieces, and rare finds that never make it to the public showroom. This is where serious collectors and dealers do business, and it’s where I secured some of the best pieces of my trip.
One thing I’ve learned over the years is that some of the biggest dealers in the world aren’t just about the ultra-rare, multimillion-dollar pieces – they also handle an incredible variety of jewelry at every level. Because they move so much inventory, there are moments when truly exceptional pieces—ones that would be centerpieces anywhere else – are simply part of the day’s business for them. That’s when the right connections and timing can lead to the most exciting finds.
After a day of meetings and sourcing, there was no time to linger. By evening, I was on a train heading out of the city, my bags just a little heavier with some of London’s finest finds.
Wyler Weir
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